Plug-in appliances only need a socket. A lot of household equipment is hard-wired instead: cookers, hobs, electric showers, extractor fans, integrated appliances on fused spurs, heated towel rails. The question isn't usually how to connect it, but whether the circuit feeding it is big enough. An induction hob or a 10.5 kW shower draws a lot of current, and the circuit, cable and protective device must suit it.
We check the existing supply first and tell you straight away if an appliance needs a new circuit, so you aren't left with a new hob that keeps tripping the breaker.
Cookers and induction hobs
Electric cookers and hobs need a dedicated radial circuit with a cooker control switch close to, but not directly above, the hob. Swapping a gas hob for induction often needs a new circuit, because many induction hobs need 32 A or more. Separate ovens and hobs may share a circuit if the combined load allows. We check the rating plates and the installation manual before connecting anything.
Electric showers
Electric showers are among the heaviest loads in a house, typically 8.5 to 10.5 kW. A new shower circuit needs suitably sized cable, usually 10 mm², a correctly rated breaker, RCD protection and a ceiling pull switch or wall isolator outside the zones. Upgrading to a more powerful shower on an old 6 mm² circuit is a common cause of overheating. A new circuit in a bathroom is notifiable under Part P, and we deal with that for you.
TVs and home tech
- TV wall points: a socket and aerial or data outlet behind the TV, with cables hidden in the wall or in trunking;
- Smart thermostats, video doorbells and cameras: wired supplies, often to replace batteries;
- Integrated appliances: switched fused spurs above the worktop so a dishwasher or washing machine can be isolated without pulling it out;
- Heated towel rails, underfloor heating thermostats and electric radiators.
We keep new cables within the safe zones, running straight up, down or across from an accessory, so they're less likely to be drilled through later.