Appliance installation

Electric cookers and induction hobs, electric showers, extractor fans, TV wall points and smart home kit. We wire it to the right circuit, with the right isolation, and test it.

Electrician installing wiring for a new appliance at a wall unit

Plug-in appliances only need a socket. A lot of household equipment is hard-wired instead: cookers, hobs, electric showers, extractor fans, integrated appliances on fused spurs, heated towel rails. The question isn't usually how to connect it, but whether the circuit feeding it is big enough. An induction hob or a 10.5 kW shower draws a lot of current, and the circuit, cable and protective device must suit it.

We check the existing supply first and tell you straight away if an appliance needs a new circuit, so you aren't left with a new hob that keeps tripping the breaker.

Cookers and induction hobs

Electric cookers and hobs need a dedicated radial circuit with a cooker control switch close to, but not directly above, the hob. Swapping a gas hob for induction often needs a new circuit, because many induction hobs need 32 A or more. Separate ovens and hobs may share a circuit if the combined load allows. We check the rating plates and the installation manual before connecting anything.

Electric showers

Electric showers are among the heaviest loads in a house, typically 8.5 to 10.5 kW. A new shower circuit needs suitably sized cable, usually 10 mm², a correctly rated breaker, RCD protection and a ceiling pull switch or wall isolator outside the zones. Upgrading to a more powerful shower on an old 6 mm² circuit is a common cause of overheating. A new circuit in a bathroom is notifiable under Part P, and we deal with that for you.

Extractor fans

Bathrooms and kitchens need mechanical extraction under the Building Regulations. As a guide, Approved Document F asks for around 15 litres per second from a bathroom and 30 l/s from a cooker hood (60 l/s if the fan is elsewhere in the kitchen). We fit timer and humidistat fans, with a fused spur or fan isolator so they can be safely serviced, and IP-rated fans where they sit within the bathroom zones.

TVs and home tech

  • TV wall points: a socket and aerial or data outlet behind the TV, with cables hidden in the wall or in trunking;
  • Smart thermostats, video doorbells and cameras: wired supplies, often to replace batteries;
  • Integrated appliances: switched fused spurs above the worktop so a dishwasher or washing machine can be isolated without pulling it out;
  • Heated towel rails, underfloor heating thermostats and electric radiators.

We keep new cables within the safe zones, running straight up, down or across from an accessory, so they're less likely to be drilled through later.

Frequently asked questions

Can an electric cooker plug into a socket?

Do I need a new circuit for an induction hob?

Can you remove the old appliance?

Is a new shower or cooker circuit notifiable?

How it works

From first message to finished job

01

Tell us about the job

A short message with a photo or two is usually enough for us to understand the job and give you a price.

02

Clear price

We confirm the cost, what's included and roughly how long it will take before you agree to anything.

03

The work

We protect floors and furniture, isolate the circuit, do the job to BS 7671 and test it before we leave.

04

Paperwork

You get the right certificate for the work, a minor works certificate or an installation certificate, plus building control notification where the law requires it.

Installations

Got a new appliance to connect?

Send the make and model, or a photo of the rating plate, and a photo of where it's going.

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