Light fitting installation

Pendants, ceiling and wall lights, LED downlights, outdoor lighting, dimmers and smart switches, fitted securely, wired correctly and tested.

Electrician fitting a new ceiling light in a living room

Changing a light fitting looks simple until the old one comes down: no earth, a loop-in ceiling rose with six cables in it, a joist exactly where the new fitting needs to go, or LED bulbs that flicker on the dimmer you already have. We fit lighting every week and deal with these as a matter of course.

Whether it's a single pendant, a room full of downlights or new wall lights in a refurbishment, we'll talk through positions, switching and dimming before we start. Lighting is one of the cheapest ways to change how a room feels, and one of the most annoying to get wrong.

What we fit

  • Pendants, flush and semi-flush ceiling lights
  • Chandeliers and heavy statement fittings
  • LED downlights, including fire-rated and IP-rated bathroom fittings
  • Wall lights, picture lights and stair lights
  • Under-cabinet and plinth lighting in kitchens
  • Outdoor wall lights, PIR security lights and garden lighting
  • Dimmer switches, smart switches and extra switching positions (two-way and intermediate)

Dimmers and LED flicker

Most flicker and buzzing complaints come from a mismatch between LED lamps and the dimmer. Older dimmers were designed for incandescent loads of 40 W or more, but a room of LED lamps might draw 30 W in total, below the dimmer's minimum. We fit trailing-edge LED dimmers rated for the actual load and check the lamps are marked dimmable. Most of the time, that cures it.

Smart switches need a neutral

Many smart switches need a neutral conductor at the switch, and UK houses wired before the mid-2010s often don't have one there. We check before you buy. Sometimes the answer is a no-neutral model, sometimes a smart module at the ceiling, and occasionally a new cable to the switch.

Downlights done properly

A downlight cuts a hole in the ceiling. Where that ceiling separates floors in a flat, or sits under a bedroom over an integral garage, it may be acting as a fire barrier, and the fitting needs to be fire-rated. In loft ceilings with insulation, fittings should be rated for insulation contact, or have a cover, so they don't overheat. We plan positions around joists and keep an even spacing, so the result looks deliberate rather than random.

Bathrooms and outdoors

Bathrooms are split into zones around the bath and shower, and every fitting needs an IP rating suited to its zone: IPX4 or better directly above a bath or shower. Bathroom lighting circuits need 30 mA RCD protection. Outside, fittings need to be weatherproof, sealed properly at the cable entry and protected by an RCD. Most of the outside-light faults we're called to are water in a poorly sealed fitting.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need an electrician to change a light fitting?

Can you supply the fittings?

How long does it take to fit a light?

Can you move a light or add a new one?

How it works

From first message to finished job

01

Tell us about the job

A short message with a photo or two is usually enough for us to understand the job and give you a price.

02

Clear price

We confirm the cost, what's included and roughly how long it will take before you agree to anything.

03

The work

We protect floors and furniture, isolate the circuit, do the job to BS 7671 and test it before we leave.

04

Paperwork

You get the right certificate for the work, a minor works certificate or an installation certificate, plus building control notification where the law requires it.

Lighting

Have lights to fit?

Send a photo of the ceiling or wall and the fittings you've chosen and we'll quote.

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