Changing a light fitting looks simple until the old one comes down: no earth, a loop-in ceiling rose with six cables in it, a joist exactly where the new fitting needs to go, or LED bulbs that flicker on the dimmer you already have. We fit lighting every week and deal with these as a matter of course.
Whether it's a single pendant, a room full of downlights or new wall lights in a refurbishment, we'll talk through positions, switching and dimming before we start. Lighting is one of the cheapest ways to change how a room feels, and one of the most annoying to get wrong.
Dimmers and LED flicker
Most flicker and buzzing complaints come from a mismatch between LED lamps and the dimmer. Older dimmers were designed for incandescent loads of 40 W or more, but a room of LED lamps might draw 30 W in total, below the dimmer's minimum. We fit trailing-edge LED dimmers rated for the actual load and check the lamps are marked dimmable. Most of the time, that cures it.
Smart switches need a neutral
Many smart switches need a neutral conductor at the switch, and UK houses wired before the mid-2010s often don't have one there. We check before you buy. Sometimes the answer is a no-neutral model, sometimes a smart module at the ceiling, and occasionally a new cable to the switch.
Downlights done properly
A downlight cuts a hole in the ceiling. Where that ceiling separates floors in a flat, or sits under a bedroom over an integral garage, it may be acting as a fire barrier, and the fitting needs to be fire-rated. In loft ceilings with insulation, fittings should be rated for insulation contact, or have a cover, so they don't overheat. We plan positions around joists and keep an even spacing, so the result looks deliberate rather than random.
Bathrooms and outdoors
Bathrooms are split into zones around the bath and shower, and every fitting needs an IP rating suited to its zone: IPX4 or better directly above a bath or shower. Bathroom lighting circuits need 30 mA RCD protection. Outside, fittings need to be weatherproof, sealed properly at the cable entry and protected by an RCD. Most of the outside-light faults we're called to are water in a poorly sealed fitting.